K & L's Travel Blog

Barcelona 2020

In our past visits to Barcelona we’ve stayed in the Eixample district of the city, but we have always been drawn to Gràcia, the area beyond Ave. Diagonal. Gràcia’s smaller buildings, narrow alleyways, numerous plaças and limited tourists give it a distinctive feel. Even though it is deeply urban, the pace seems just a bit slower, the scale just a bit smaller, the neighbors just a bit closer.

For our 2020 trip (Jan. 21-Feb 11th) we rented a one-bedroom apartment in Gràcia. COVID was just starting: enough for the city to cancel the Feb. 2 Chinese New Year celebration and to dominate the news, though its impact in Europe was just beginning to be reported. We were sick with what was likely mild COVID (bad cold, night sweats, loss of taste, nausea), but didn’t know enough to slow down.

The apartment’s location on the Carrer de Banyoles was close to our familiar Eixample neighborhood, but still offered a good launching point for exploring Gràcia and the adjacent Sarrià-Sant Gervasi. The apartment cost about 100.00 USD a night, had two terraces, one that we used for drying clothes and a larger one for lounging and dining. The weather started with a bang: cyclone “Gloria” made for a terrifying flight from Paris and an arrival into a shut-down, eerily deserted city. After the first two days things quieted down and warmed up enough to allow for al fresco dining. I loved the view over the neighborhood and the proximity to a social club. Kitty made the most of the kitchen and all the fresh Barcelona market food surrounding us.

We found folks in Gràcia to be friendly and open despite the numerous “Go Home Tourists!” signs posted about. After a few repeated visits, we became known at the local markets, and were always greeted warmly. We were struck by the sociality of the area: people took time to gather in small groups or as couples along streets or in one of the numerous plaças. We began routinely taking time in our day to just sit and observe the world from a bench. I found the practice helped me to slow down enough to feel the daily rhythms and to get a better sense of the people who live, work and play here.

A short (4.44 min.) animated video, Solos, by Gabriella Marsh captures the rhythms and the sounds of one of our favorite Gràcia spots, Plaça de la Virreina.

So our recommendation for a slightly slower-paced Barcelona experience is to try a stay in Gràcia. Keep in mind that the location won’t be as convenient to the main sights (with the exception of Parc Güell and Casa Vicens), but if offers a chance to get away from the crowds and is perfect for a return trip to Barcelona. Set aside some time to relax in a plaça at a bench or table, chat with your neighbor or simply enjoy the moment.