Madrid, 21 & 22 January 2024
We had a quiet day on Sunday after our lively romp in La Latina. We decided to stay local, so went for lunch at a neighborhood Asian restaurant. Miix Kitchen was a few blocks away. They advertise as Japanese, but also offer what I’d consider Chinese dishes. We shared shrimp for an appetizer, Kitty had Katsu on noodles and I had Kung Pao Chicken. It was affordable & satisfying and the servers were friendly.
Then we walked to Moncloa and rode up the Moncloa Lighthouse to take in views. It was a perfect, clear day. We passed through the university and the campus vibe was unmistakable and familiar.
On Monday we did a walking tour of our neighboring barrios, Malasaña and Chueca. They each had a cool, trendy feel and were busier than Chamberí with a few more tourists. Chueca is the glbtq district. We started with the Calle de Fuerencarrel, a long shopping street that extends from Chamberí into the old town. In Malasaña we passed the Segundo de Mayo monument that marks an unsuccessful rebellion against Napoleon’s occupation. The insurrectionist’s execution on the following day is memorialized in a famous Goya painting. Interesting to think about.
Malasaña’s streets are colorful with some fine street art and retro clothing stores. The morning is cool and cloudy (40’s) but the sun comes out in the afternoon and temps warm again near 50.
We walk past an amazing old pharmacy with intact tilework advertisements tracing a number of human ailments. The pictures are not only amusing, but served to enlighten their illiterate customers.
Kitty takes refuge in a warm church where she watches devout worshipers followed by a team of pew cleaners while I scout a nearby vermuteria. I fetch her and we head to the Bodega de la Ardosa. Once again, a lot to look at. When we entered we were the only customers but by the time we left the place had filled up with people and that vermouth social buzz had started. There was a small opening in the back of the bar where they passed through food. People were ordering tortillas (omelets) with potatoes. Kitty said when we left (after only one vermut, mind you) it felt as though we’d been lost in time, gone back a hundred years, transported to another place.
We headed on to Chueca where rainbow flags dominate, even on the subway sign. A gaggle of brightly attired drag queens pass us. We consider following in their spectacular wake, but stick with our itinerary instead.
We headed towards a notable building that is said to be the closest that Madrid comes to Gaudi. It was ornate, but not quite to Gaudi’s (or Montaner’s or Puig’s) standard. These days it’s an author and editors’ association. They have a fierce guard who wards off any nosey photographers seeking an elusive angle on the edifice.
At lunchtime (2:00) we made our way back to the market (Mercado Barcelo) we had visited the other day for dumplings. It’s multi-level and confusing to navigate. We are seeking the food court level but instead find a gym on the upper floor and a fancy restaurant on another. We resort to an elevator after multiple escalators. A woman compliments us on our choice: “You’ve found a real Spanish food court. No tourists here! Well done! Enjoy!” Nothing like getting praised by a Madrileña!
Most of the restaurant stands are closed, but we settle on a place with a menu del día where the waiter translates and does his best to get us to stop. There we enjoy three courses for €12.50. We watch in awe as the people around us devour every bit of their hefty meals. I do my best with my giant bowl of beans, pork and egg and am sated for the rest of the day and into the morning.
In the afternoon we rest and then go out to shop for a few items. The streets have come alive again after the siesta lull, and a beautiful moon rises over Galileo.
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