K & L's Travel Blog

September 19th-20th, 2025

We decide to spend our first full day in Cape Breton exploring some of the National Park hikes in our immediate surroundings. Our first step was to procure our passes for the park. Since we have two cars and two itineraries, Kitty & I get a pass that will last us the next two days while Star chooses a seasonal pass to support the park. This morning we are hiking together in the morning, beginning with Middlehead in Ingonish.

Middlehead trailhead starts near the Celtic Lodge, and was perhaps our favorite hike from our 2011 trip. I’m learning though that we were different people then, 15 years younger, and that a walk that was unremarkable in its challenges at 55 might present more challenges when one is on the edge of 70.

The trail heads down to the water and then rises up to the point with views of Cape Smoky and beyond. And even if the walk was challenging in parts, overall it was a stunningly beautiful walk, not only for the forest and water views, but the flora. We didn’t see seals or whales, but the wildflowers made up for it: purples and golds with fall colors all around against the deep green of the spruce and pines. After the hike, we headed up to Neil’s Cove and the Chowder House for lunch. Kitty & I shared the lobster BLT, Star got fried clams, and Mary seafood chowder with a biscuit. Delicious all around!

From Neil’s Cove we went to Black Cove Beach, which was divided from the more interesting side of the beach by a stream, but it was still fun poking around. Then it was on to Green Cove. There was a flight of steps, steep with no banister, so I declined to spare my knee and took photos from afar. Kitty & Mary were delighted to spy seals lounging on nearby rocks. 

Star and Mary went on to hike around Warren Lake while we walked around Ingonish, visiting a nearby goat farm/petting zoo. For dinner, Kitty fixed snow crab with a delicious spinach dip followed by crab chowder. Wow!

The next day Mary & Star are ready to find more hikes off the Cabot Trail. Kitty & I set off for a local farmer’s market at the North Cape Community Center. Parking is limited but we squeeze in a space. A man with coolers (fish?) is there at the door and Kitty asks “Are you selling fish?” but he is such a mutterer we can’t understand a word he says. We say our goodbyes and move on. There’s a small room to the right with vegetables, but the large room ahead draws us in with a variety of stuff for sale: baked goods, photos, books, nick knacks.

I am pleased to find a small kitchen serving breakfast, so we order French Toast and we sit in the back and observe the market and enjoy the breakfast. The maple syrup is thicker, richer and more flavorful than at home, but I wouldn’t say it was sweeter. A guitarist takes the stage singing Scottish ballads of lost love. We are (as expected) the only tourists, but people continue to embrace us and seemingly welcome our presence. I buy some cookies and donuts for our hiking tomorrow. 

When we leave we see a sign about a block up the road for “Fresh Mussels.” We head that way and turn down a narrow lane, following signs to a shed. There is nobody there, but a sign instructs us to self-serve, choosing either 5 lb bags for homes or 20 lb bags for restaurants. The 5 pound costs $15.00, and ends up serving all of us handily at our evening feast.