26/12/2017
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| Casa Vicens |
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| L’Estel Ferit |
I went out to visit Casa Vicens this morning while Kitty rests from another night coughing. Vicens is Gaudí’s first commissioned house that has just recently (Nov. 2017) opened for visitors. It was about a 15 minute walk from our place. Admission at 16 EUR is a bit dear, but where else am I going to see Gaudí’s first house? They give you an option of a guided or self-guided tour, and I opted for the latter since I was really more interested in photography. It was built in the 1880’s and shows both Moorish and Asian influences. The Gothic Palau Güell that we visited last week is quite a contrast to this brightly colored, airy structure. Still the lovely wrought iron (I believe Gaudí’s father was in that business), and smart use of lattice for shading. The Modernista penchant for nature was in full show: plants everywhere with ceilings in some rooms looking like they were covered in three dimensional leaves, birds lurking on the sides and flowers on the tiles. Very colorful, and much smaller than I would have thought.
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| Barceloneta Beach |
I got back about noon. We had bocadillas and rested before heading out to Barceloneta, an fisherman’s neighborhood created turn-of-the century, now dominated by all kinds of seafood restaurants. Although it’s relatively empty today in Eixample, this area was thronging with tourists. The beach was cleaner and bigger than I would have thought. We walk along the boardwalk before stopping at a neighborhood bar for some vermouth and tapas. When we finish, I’m surprised to see how close we are to our standard bus stop: just about five minutes away. I can feel the start of the cold as we get back to the apartment–just as Kitty is getting her legs back I may be heading down.
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| Jai-Ca 2 |
What a magical afternoon. We rode the bus down to the city beach, Barceloneta. All the times we have visited and we have not once walked around down there. The weather was balmy, the sunset beautiful and everyone was so relaxed. I have read that it is the most beautiful “city” beach in Europe. I realized that I have never been to a beach in a city (or does Miami count?)! There were tons of guys selling patterned sheets to sit on and a woman approached me, “want a massage?” Many people had dogs and we watched them run free and play. Lorena reminded me of a TV ‘travel nightmare’ show we saw once about girls who feel asleep on the beach and had all their belongings stolen. It is hard to keep your guard up with so much invitation to be loose. We wound around to the streets surrounding the beach and were equally charmed by the quiet neighborhoods and old apartments with laundry hanging out the widows.
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| Jai-Ca 2 |
We stopped at a local bar for some Vermouth. It was out of central casting. The young lovers at the bar, the smiling Nigerian selling wares and the carful attentive barman making sure we had everything we wanted. We ordered the seasonal onions that we had read about- I would call them a cross between ramps and spring onions. They had been battered and fried with Romanesco sauce on top. Yum.





What a beautiful city that is. I love it so. My computer is all fixed now. It took Jeff and I 8 hours yesterday to fix it. We took it back to it's out of the box state. It turns out I got scammed by people I thought were Microsoft, but instead they charged me $145 and put a bug in my computer. So he rebuilt it and it's like new and the scammers cannot get in anymore. Also, getting my money back from my credit card. Keep enjoying yourselves. Love, Jane
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