El Call and Barri Gótic, La Gormanda

I’ve been wanting to get down to the Gothic area early in the early morning while the light is still soft. The alleys are so narrow and winding it’s hard to shoot midday, but it remains one of the most beautiful places in the city. The trick is avoiding the crowds as this is the area the cruise ship travelers tend to frequent between 9:00 and 3:00.
The history here goes back to Roman times, and there are bits of the old wall as below near the cathedral. Most of this area is medieval with narrow, winding streets.

It’s Sunday morning, so aside from a few late-night revelers finishing up their fun and a some other tourists and locals, we pretty much have the city to ourselves. It’s a lovely morning with some clouds that slow down the light.

Ponte del Bisbe

I find I can take several iconic shots that have always been impossible in the past due to the crowds. I seek out the Calle Bisbe and San Philip Neri square, but other than that am happy just to wander.

Resident Geese at Cathedral

We returned home after coffee and churros at a really cute café just around the corner from St. Maria del Pi. Getting home is quick and easy—again, not a lot of people and a direct route on the L3.

El Call

We make a reservation for 3:00 at a restaurant around the corner on C. Aribau, La Gormanda. A woman chef who resembles Katie Button in looks and artistry provides us with an amazing meal. It’s a small restaurant, and our table overlooks the kitchen and chef’s table. There are tons of small children. It becomes clear that there is a party of sorts. Two of the kids belong to chef—her daughter seems especially sweet and helps deliver plates.

We dine somewhat adventurously (for us) and have no regrets: octopus Bomba, clams with artichokes, Chinese beef dumplings styled after a traditional Catalan Christmas soup, and regional snails. Our wine is amazing—a Priorat. We order expresso for dessert but small children deliver almond cookies and chocolate courtesy of the house. We are charmed.

Catalan dim sum

Snails with Aioli

Servers-in-training par excellent

We finish about 5:00 and walk up Balmes towards Tibidabo until we can walk no more and then work to find the reserve to walk home. It’s warm and the wind is picking up, though luckily now it is at our back and we are heading downhill. We are home by 7:30 feeling virtuous enough from the exercise for me to indulge in a cupcake. I think it will be an early night!