We start the day with a beautiful sunrise over the neighborhood. Sunday night proved to be much calmer for us and I awaken feeling rested. We decide to go out to breakfast. Our host has arranged for her mother to come by today to change the bedlinens (?!). I suspect that this has more to do with checking in to make sure the apartment is not being trashed. We eat a nearby café and I enjoy Eggs Benedict (or “Benny”).
I had read about a fragment of the 1940’s ghetto wall that was just around the corner. We find the entrance just off of Kiraly Utca. There’s no sign or indicator on the street. If I hadn’t researched this we never would have ventured into the unmarked, dark and decayed courtyard. There’s a plaque marking the wall, and low-rent apartments surrounding it. It’s an appropriately somber place.
Not far outside the wall fragment back on the street I see my first Budapest Stolperstein marking two people who were departed to concentration camps in 1944.
The “Shoes on the Danube” is a 2005 installment of 60 pairs of realistically rendered iron shoes in remembrance of the many Jews who were killed by fascist militia during the war. They were routinely lined up, asked to off their shoes, and then summarily shot so the river would carry off their bodies (Wikipedia). It’s a dark start to our day.
We head to a Cat Café to help wear away the sorrow of the past. On the way we pass St. Stephen’s basilica. For some reason I haven’t wanted to go into any cathedrals this trip, but we do plan to visit the Dohány Street Synagogue Wednesday morning.
This is our first Cat Café and it is a wonderful experience. The cats are such stars!! They laze around in an environment dominated by perching stands, soft pillows and baskets. The rules ask that you don’t pick them up, and please use hand sanitizer before petting them. Four cats sleep behind me and others wander the three levels. People take pictures and approach them as though they were gods. I feel honored when one approaches me with a chirp and lets me pet him. It’s a wonderful way to spend an hour and restore ourselves.
We head back to Kaczynski Utca and the food truck court, “Street Food Karavan Budapest.” There are lots of choices for lunch, everything from fried chicken to barbeque to hamburgers to vegan. I opt for curry and Kitty settles on a lángos, traditional Hungarian open-faced sandwich with garlic, shredded cheese and sour cream on deep fried dough. The Thai red curry is very hot, but delicious.
We take a break in our apartment following that meal. I have enough time to edit photos and get a start on the blog before we head out again at sunset. In the main square where we are meant to get on the bus traffic is cleared by an extensive motorcade with police escort. They’ve just had an election, so we imagine it’s the new President, so some comparable dignitary. Once the bus finally comes, it is slow going in rush hour. We get off the other side of the chain bridge, and it’s a beautiful evening, very romantic. We watch the sun set and the blue hour, then the lights go on all around us: the bridges, the Parliament, the cathedral, the castle, all are set aglow against the blue of the Danube. Lovely.
We walk back to our place and decide to skip our plan to go to a bar and eat in at our house instead. Salad and pasta. Another great day. Kitty notes we’ve walked 18,000 steps. We hope to crack 20,000 before it’s done.
K & L's Travel Blog 
Hi Helen, I had a superficial grasp on the history here. I’d been focusing on earlier (pre-WWI) history in my preparation, and it’s been a sober education to learn about WWII and Soviet period. Thanks for following. It’s wonderful to hear your comments. We noticed right away that folks wear a scowl here (beyond the usual European seriousness). I am beginning to understand why. Travel inevitably furthers one’s education and understanding and I find that process humbling.
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Oh, the shoes. Heavy.
The sunrise and sunset photos of the city are gorgeous. In our most recent trip we spent time in DC and Boston. Did a lot of walking. I think I was up to 17,000 steps a few days but developed tendonitis in my knee. Take care of those bodies.
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Hi Brenda, You’ll be pleased to know that we had a nice rest hour yesterday afternoon and are taking time as well today. Kitty and I have enjoyed reconnecting with you through the blog, and appreciate all your kind support. Best, Lorena
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Those shoes are indeed sad. The food looks amazing though and I’m glad you got to the cat cafe. You’ll have to check out the one in Greenville, SC when you get back. I’m enjoying following along on your travels. Sebastian sends his love! 🙂
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Hi Ellie, We did not know there was a cat cafe in Greenville and will definitely check it out. They have a Zoo Cafe here with lizards and other things. Not sure we’ll make it there, though. I’ve been tempted to return to the cat cafe. I found it much more comforting than the main zoo itself. I had never seen a sad otter before (though I can hear our friend Viva warning that I am anthropomorphizing the behavior). It didn’t seem right all alone, crying out loudly in what I could only understand as distress, swimming back and forth. Give me the cat cafe any day! Kitty says pick all the flowers you want before the frost!
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The shoes are unforgettable.
I can’t help but be reminded of the poor Kurds.
Wonderful photos and commentary.
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Hi Mary, Thanks for your comments and for following us on the blog! The shoes were one of the more powerful memorials I’ve seen–the House of Terror was much more extensive, but somehow did not paint the same picture. When I was taking photos a family from Denmark approached me to ask what the shoes were all about–you could see their faces as they took it all in. I am, of course, following current events through my usual podcasts. I think part of why I’m waking up early is to hear the latest “Dateline White House” or Rachel Maddow take on unfolding events. Syria just seems to get worse and worse. We commiserated with Brits yesterday about how our countries are falling apart.
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What a day. When I first looked at the shoes/boots along the river, I was confused as to its meaning of so many items left there… til I read your words. Humbling. amazing. must have been a challenge to recover after seeing that. Your days have been so mixed and varied. It’s such a nice mix of interests and research you two have on the approach to your travels. Photos are wonderful. Essays are wonderful. You’d be tough to keep up with!!
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