K & L's Travel Blog

Here’s a retrospective post from our Jan.-Feb. 2020 trip to Barcelona offering an overview of our eating experiences.

The food scene in Barcelona is a big part of what got Kitty and me back to the city in 2013 and what has kept us coming back year after year. We are budget-minded travelers who appreciate the affordable, quality foods we can find in Barcelona and throughout most of Europe. The food markets here are legendary, and the fixed-price menus del día typically offer multi-course meals with drinks at (comparatively) bargain prices. In early 2020, our cheapest menu meal for two totaled 20 EUR, and our most expensive meal (Cal Pep) was 68 EUR. Bocadillas (ham & cheese sandwich on baguette) with drink typically cost about 4 EUR a piece.

This lengthy post offers an overview of the memorable meals we enjoyed in 2020. In researching (May 2022), I was sorry to see that two favorites are now closed permanently: Restaurante Cal Robert and La Singular, both in Gràcia, and both exceptional bargains.

Restaurants are not listed in any order of preference, and the titles are linked to Google Maps locations. If you are heading to Barcelona, I highly recommend Foodie in Barcelona. And please, feel free to comment and offer any corrections on what you read below based on your knowledge and experience.

Gràcia Eats & Drinks

La Trini

A no-frills local favorite with solid Catalan fare. The menu del día was €15.00 for three courses and beverages.

La Pubilla

We’ve enjoyed amazing meals here in the past, but in Jan. 2020 they seemed stretched thin from demand. Kitty enjoyed her cod and her tuna tartar. Make a reservation in advance.

Platerets

The closest restaurant to our apartment. It had good reviews and was a bit more upscale than our usual haunts.

Nabucco Tiramisu

Great luncheon spot for salads or sandwiches just off the main square.

Pollería Marín

We’ve had some amazing rotisserie chicken in Barcelona and this might be the best. The two brothers will take care of you.

Sabio Infante

By the end of our trip we needed a change from our breakfast croissant. We had a pricey but tasty granola breakfast at a stylish place so cool they come off as cold.

Dismon Patissos i Xocolata

Delicious cookies in Gràcia with an affable baker.

La Besnéta

Local bakery with photogenic and delicious vegan fare.

Tortilleria La Antigua de México

At last! Proper tortilla chips, tacos, and super friendly service all together in Barcelona. We met them at the Palo Alto market, and then followed up at their Gràcia storefront.

Chivuo’s Gràcia

We were moved to come here after seeing a review of their burgers, and they were excellent. Kitty looks glum not from the food, but due to a delay with her wine delivery. Only later we would realize she was also likely fighting COVID.

Las Vermuterias

Vermouth is typically enjoyed as an aperitif here, but for me sometimes the drink is just an excuse to gain access to a location. The Vermuterias are some of the most interesting places in the city, and every one that I’ve been in boasts their own brew and light menu. We went to three in Gràcia, barely scratching the surface.

La Vermuteria del Tano

One of the oldest Vermuteria I’ve been to with some very good Vermut and a cozy setting.

La Vermu

A really fine bomba and good vermouth. I’d photographed this place in 2013 and had always wanted to return. I finally made it our last night in 2020.

Bar Bodega Quimet

This is another place I’d photographed from outside, and this trip I finally got my nerve up to venture inside. It was dazzling and full of history and culture. I was the sole customer for a bit and felt pampered by the woman tending bar.

Markets and Street Food

One of the things we love about having an apartment with a kitchen is the possibilities it opens up not only for cooking, but for venturing out to the local food markets and street stands. In Eixample, we split our time between Mercat del Ninot and Mercat de la Llibertat. This year we were only a couple of blocks away from the Mercat de l’Aberceria. The food markets are social centers, so be prepared to wait patiently for service as the local customers catch up on the latest news.

Mercat de l’Aberceria

We have visited this Gràcia market since 2013, though prior to this trip it was always too far away for regular shopping. This trip we bought produce, meats and bread here as well as fresh pasta, grains, nuts, olives and seafood. We are still nostalgic for the old location, though they are putting something communal in its place.

San Antoni Market

This market was closed for renovation and only recently reopened. It’s one of the most lovely in terms of its architecture. Don’t forget to look up at the ceiling when you’re inside and take time to circle the exterior.

Palo Alto Fundació

A monthly outdoor event on an old factory grounds with multiple food trucks and venues as well as arts and crafts and music. We had delicious Korean noodles and a wonderful time walking around. Worth checking out if one happens during your stay. Bring a pack to carry home any purchases.

San Antoní Craft Beer Festival

We’ve been lucky to catch this small street festival that followed the Très Tombs of Sant Antoní Animal Blessing parade twice. It offers a good sampling of local breweries and food trucks.

Other Neighborhood Restaurants

Café Restaurant CaixaFòrum

We typically have had good luck at museum restaurants, and this one was excellent and affordable. We ate there after viewing a photography exhibit on the Spanish Civil War. The museum itself is housed in a converted factory.

Cal Pep

Cal Pep in El Born advertises as a tapas restaurant and does not offer a daily menu. It’s been on our list for several years. We sat at the counter, lucky to secure a spot on a stormy day. There, we turned our dining fortune over to the waiters (there was no printed menu), who began serving us a series of amazing dishes accompanied by their home-brewed vermouth and fresh beer. We enjoyed tomato bread, fried artichokes, tuna tartar, steamed clams, and the best tortilla (omelet) I’ve ever tasted. When we could eat no more, we reluctantly signaled to stop the flow of dishes. Our bill was 68.00 EUR. We typically spend a total of 30 EUR for lunch, so this counted as a splurge. Given the quality and quantity of the food, we couldn’t complain! Our best meal of 2020.

El 58

A tapas restaurant in Poblenou. This return visit that was not quite as delicious as our prior one, but the curry dip with calamari was still a hit.

La Esquinita de Blai

C. de Blai in Poble Sec is a popular street to go for pinxtos, bite-size appetizers on a skewer. This bar is one of our favorites. The pinxtos here typically cost 2-3 EUR per piece, the beer 2 EUR for a small glass (copa).

Restaurante La Flauta

We eat here every visit to enjoy their consistently excellent food at affordable prices. They also keep long hours. I like their “Huevos Cabreaos” and their “Mel i Mato,” but everything from seafood to desserts has been great. Who knew honey on fresh cheese would be so good? We frequented their old location on C. de Balmes, but they have recently moved to Rambla de Catalunya. They have a second restaurant, “La Flauta,” also in Eixample.

Carles Abellan

This chef also owns Tapas 24. There is some crossover in the menu, but this restaurant is just off of Ave. Diagonal, technically in Eixample but bordering Grácia. The prices are a bit higher and the plate size a bit smaller, but for us the high quality of the tapas has been consistent. They are known for their bikinis, but for me the Ensalada Rusa sets the standard, and I consider their chicken wings sublime.

Solo Pizza

This place was just down the street from our former rental apartment, and has the best Italian-style pizza I’ve ever tasted. And lovely fresh salad and tiramisu.

Anita Flow

Good food, but I’m not sure I’d know I was in Barcelona as they have such an international (e.g. British/US) vibe. Geared for travelers. Spacious.

Café Caracas

We stopped here for an expresso one day. Good coffee with a peaceful terrace in the back. They are a chain, but this one had a good feel to it.

Day Trip Restaurants

Yamuna Restaurant, Sitges

Can’t complain about the mussels, bravas, and beer we enjoyed with a sea view. It was one of the few places open the day we visited. This is our second visit to Sitges, and we love the relaxed vibe. I even got to see Venus emerge from the foam.

Can Gula, Sant Cugat

A fun restaurant just outside a rambling flea market in a town in the mountains above Barcelona. Don’t miss the library/bar/theater across the way.