K & L's Travel Blog

These past few years have made me more guarded towards strangers. On the personal level–on the level of our everyday lives–we’ve been lucky with our health and quite happy, but politically it’s been challenging. After the past six years or so, I feel closer to misanthropy than optimism about my fellow humans, and have real doubts about the future of American democracy. Travel feels like a good antidote.

This trip to PEI, Dartmouth & Halifax is our first time really traveling since COVID. The destination is intentional, chosen in part to help counter the suspicion I now hold against my fellow Americans. I wanted to get out of the country and out of its environment of idiocy, violence and political tension. As a traveller, I expect to be put into situations where I’ll have to “depend on the kindness of strangers.” And really, what better place to relearn how to trust strangers than Canada?

We have avoided crowds for many months and here we are amidst the varied but largely Unmasked masses at the Atlanta Airport. I find I am at once amused by the parade of people before us but also guarded and suspicious as we wait at our gate. One man walks by with no arms and artificial legs and he seems in great spirits. There are tons of children. We overhear a mother/daughter pair: “Well here we are and we’re doing it!!” Our sentiments exactly: Here we are and we’re doing it! Everyone seems stressed, having to ask questions, huddling together in their groups. Kitty and I reassure each other, and are amazed when everything goes as planned.

On the flight to Toronto we sit next to a fellow named Sean from Brunswick GA. It was his first plane flight, and he was heading to Ireland with family. His grandfather was behind him. As we landed in Toronto, passengers are reminded that in Canada everyone had to wear a mask. A ripple of panic went through the plane as so many were without masks. Sean says “I should have listened to my mother!” Kitty gives him one of our N95s and then he asks “Can I have a second for my grandfather?” Please do!

I find myself more relaxed in Canada, where everyone is wearing masks and seems eager to help. Eating lunch really helps. And although it is uncomfortable and hot to keep masks on for 12 hours, I’m glad to have it when on the final leg I’m stuck in the middle seat next to a visibly sick man. But travel is nothing if not ups and downs, so once we arrive in Halifax and successfully find and board the city bus, we are elated. After all that stress and anxiety, we have prevailed! Completing travel always feels like a bit of a victory, but after 2+ years of living the retired, homebody experience through the pandemic, it feels especially great.

The hotel room is nice and as promised is on the seventh floor with a balcony overlooking the water. We head out almost immediately for the Ferry Terminal where we’d hoped to be able to buy dinner to go and get wine at the store, but we were too late and all that was closing. One restaurant, the Wooden Monkey, was still open. It had lovely views of the harbor. We had a nice sit down meal instead: Kitty had cod, I had a chicken sandwich. The fresh fish was beautifully prepared, and our waiter was exceptionally kind. The wine was welcomed. We finished by ten and made our way back to the hotel, feeling restored after our long day.

The Halifax Harbor glitters in the city lights and the ferries cross endlessly, back and forth. It’s just lovely.