This past summer Kitty and I have spoken to several friends & acquaintances who are planning trips to Barcelona. Those conversations have prompted us to add this entry, intended for those who are planning a Barcelona trip and seeking recommendations for independent travel. Along with Barcelona blogs on this WordPress site, our earlier Blogger site includes 2014-2019 travel entries to Barcelona, Cadaqués and Valencia.

We’ve made 11 winter trips to Barcelona from the US since 1985. Our first two stays were a few days at a hostel (long gone) and hotel (The Soho—recommended lgbtq-friendly), but since 2015 we’ve rented apartments, initially through a local agency (Habitat Apartments) and more recently via Airbnb for two-five week stays. Having a kitchen has been a game-changer for Kitty, who loves the challenge of cooking. I love photography so between the scenic streets, amazing food, and relaxed lifestyle, Barcelona remains our top destination for winter travel.

One of the things we appreciate about Barcelona is how affordable the city can be. In Jan-Feb 2023 we spent $7,000 total for 5 weeks, about $100/person/day, air & transportation included. (Note that the apartment rentals discount 4 week+ stays and we don’t spend much on museums and sites as first-time visitors). We use public transportation, arrange our own day trips, and eat two meals a day at home. The food & wine is a big part of what draws us back to Barcelona every year. We also appreciate the liberal and welcoming vibe we feel. We strive to stay sensitive to the woes of over-touristing Barcelona has suffered and to do our best to be proper guests and local consumers.

Planning:

Travel Guides & Other Resources:

Rick Steves Barcelona and Lonely Planet served us well on early trips. Now we largely rely on travel blogs, Google Maps and other online resources. For non-fiction, I’d recommend Robert Hughes’ Barcelona, Colm Tóibín’s Homage to Barcelona and George Orwell’s Homage to Barcelona. If you prefer fiction, try Carlos Luis Zafon’s Shadow of the Wind.

Metropolitan Barcelona is a local, English online weekly that lists upcoming events and exhibitions. Time Out is another good site for keeping up with current events.

Foodie in Barcelona remains my favorite food blogger for the city, offering lots of choices from major neighborhoods.

FB Barcelona Travel & FB Barcelona Foodies are two Facebook groups that are useful for searching as well as for fielding answers to specific questions. Just don’t ask where to eat paella on the Ramblas! (General rule: don’t eat on Las Ramblas, but save your money for better fare on some back street!)

Google Maps remains our most indispensable tool for planning and navigating. I make custom maps for each trip with potential restaurants and destinations. Because we like to wander and explore, researching a neighborhood in advance gives us a choice of vetted restaurants from which to choose. You can also navigate public transportation using the app. To save data charges, download maps and routes with Wifi.

We were able to use our I-phone (Apple Pay) to pay for practically everything we bought in 2023. I assume Androids offer the same. We use credit cards that don’t charge fees for international transactions. If you are asked “US Dollars or Euros?” when making a purchase, say “Euros” to avoid fees.

TripIt is an app that lets you organize all travel documents and itinerary details in one spot. It helped us to stay us on track with our itinerary but is also easily edited for those inevitable changes.

Safety and Security

• We use PacSafe brand for money belts and daypacks: they have a clip that deters the easy pick and metal mesh to block a slash.
• Beware distractions on the street in the old city, say a group of young fellows prancing. Just watch your belongings and keep moving as it’s often a pickpocketing ploy.
• Don’t put your phone or other valuables on tables at meals
• Don’t hang bags on chairs at restaurants and bars
• Don’t put a wallet in an open back pocket
• I carry a camera but use a hefty side strap that lets me keep my hand on it.
• Phone tethers are something we haven’t used but are considering for the future.
• Make use of a hotel/apartment safe for stashing passport, cash and cards.

Barcelona has a well-earned reputation for talented pickpockets, so stay alert when in crowds and especially in the major tourist destinations. Nevertheless we always feel safe–safer than we feel in US cities–given the low incidence of violent crime.

Where to Stay

We’ve always chosen to stay a bit farther from the water and the old city because we want to get away from the crowds. Eixample is a favorite neighborhood due to its architecture, breadth of restaurant choices and accessibility to the Old Town. For years, we rented on C. d’Enric Granados from Habitat Apartments, but have found their response time dodgy since COVID. They still have a number of good options, as do multiple other vacation rental companies. For the past two years we have used AirBNB without problems. We’ve stayed in Gràcia neighborhood which is a more residential and a bit farther away but great fun. Everyone has different priorities, but we seek a sunny apartment with a decent kitchen, washer, shower, desk with good WIFI. Balconies are a welcomed plus.

Getting Around:

Communicating:

A little Spanish can get you far in Barcelona, but a bit of Catalan—just a handful of travel phrases—is widely appreciated throughout Catalonia. Google Translate remains very useful for deciphering Catalan menus.

Be prepared to modify your U.S. tipping practices. Tipping is optional given the general practice of providing fair wages. You should still feel free to offer a minimal tip for exceptional service, but it’s generally not expected. Rounding up fares in taxis is appreciated.

Taxis:

We used to take the Aerobus (€22 r/t) to get from the airport to town, but since staying in more remote neighborhoods we’ve started taking a taxi (€25-30). When in town we typically use public transportation and walk when possible, but if you use taxis, try the Taxi Barcelona & AMB: Yellow Taxi Barcelona app. There are also taxi stands and plenty to flag in passing (stand on a corner as taxis share right lane with buses). Note there are no Uber ride shares in BCN.

Buses and Metro:

We favor the buses over the subway for the views they afford, but the Metro is generally your fastest way of getting across town. Everything is generally clean, modern and comfortable. Do keep hold of all valuables and (as always) keep an eye out for pickpockets.

TIP: people value quiet on buses and subways and may hiss disapproval at noisy tourists.

We use the T-Casual (formally the T-10) ticket pack. Once you validate, you have 90 minutes of ride time for transferring. They’ve developed a new smartphone app for public transportation, but I’ve heard mixed reviews these past few months.

Check out the official TMB site: https://www.tmb.cat/en/home, Barcelona Turisme https://www.barcelonaturisme.com/wv3/en/page/5/getting-around-the-city.html, and the Barcelona Tourist Guide https://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/en/transport/transport-in-barcelona.html for more information.

Rental Cars:

We’ve rented cars twice for short stays, once for a week in Cadaqués and once to tour the Priorat wine region. We reserved in advance and got International Drivers Licenses from AAA. It was straight forward and we had no problems. Roads are generally easy to navigate, although those remote mountain backroads offered some extra thrills, especially after dark! We avoided driving in Barcelona.

Trains:

We enjoy trains. The coastal routes north and south of Barcelona are full of great seaside towns for a day trip; we’d recommend Sitges and San Pol de Mar. Inland, Penedres (Cava country) and Girona are also easy day-trips. You won’t be able to reserve your rail tickets until a few weeks before travel. There are several train stations in Barcelona, so double check the best location for your convenience.

SIM Cards and ESIMS:

Plan ahead for your phone usage while abroad. Roaming fees quickly add up, and many restaurants request a local call to reserve your place. It is easy to find a local telephone company store (we used Orange) and purchase a SIM card to put in your phone, and that will give you a local number. For 20 USD you can purchase 5 weeks of time. We did have trouble purchasing an ESIM as non-residents in 2023. If you have a newer phone and need an ESIM, try HolaFly (data only). Ask friends and family to download “WhatsApp” and use that to keep in touch via phone. Ideas on this topic are especially welcomed! Please comment and share your experiences.

Sights and Destinations

Neighborhoods

We recommend walking when and where you can. The neighborhoods closest to the water are the oldest. These include El Born, El Gotic/Gothic, El Raval, Barceloneta, La Ribera and are on either side of the (highly touristed) main pedestrian zone, La Ramblas.

It’s challenging to maintain your direction in the narrow and winding streets. We don’t mind getting lost in the Gothic or Born to avoid GPS distractions. Downhill generally leads towards the shore, and on either side you’d eventually emerge onto a larger, identifiable avenue or the waterfront.

Note that beside Las Ramblas, there are other pedestrian walkways worth strolling. These include the Rambla de Catalunya, R. de Gaudí, and R. de Poblenou.

TIP: Time your visits to the oldest neighborhoods to avoid the cruise ship crowds that swamp the areas between 9:00 and 2:00PM. Check out La Boqueria in the early morning and head to the back.

The Eixample neighborhood borders the central Plaça de Catalunya and is where some of the major architectural destinations can be found (see below). Eixample includes San Antoni, an area with a striking food market and numerous events. The adjoining neighborhood of Poble Sec borders Montjuïc, with its lovely views, museums and gardens.

Parks & Gardens:

Every neighborhood hosts a peaceful garden, plaça or park. Montjuïc has several, including the Botanical Gardens, a cactus garden (Jardins de Mossèn Costa I Llobera)and the lush Jardins de Laribal. You’ll find a small but oasis-like urban retreat at the Muñoz Ramonet Gardens. Others, like the main Parc de la Ciutadella, host flocks of green, chattering parakeets as well as crowds of children and regular patrons.

TIP: Many city fountains offer drinking water. Look for the spickets.

The most famous park is Park Güell, which has a number of Gaudi features and lovely views of the city. You will need an advance reservation with fee. Another park we love is Turo de Putxet with equally stunning city views, less patrons, and a healthy dog population. Even farther out from the main city is the Parc del Laberint d’Horta with it’s elaborate labyrinth and shady paths.

Barcelona has two cemeteries I’d recommend: the older Cementiri de Poblenou and the more expansive Cementiri de Montjuïc.

Architecture:

Antoni Gaudí’s primary buildings are in Eixample. We recommend Sagrada Familia (make reservations in advance; light most dramatic in morning and evening), Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau (built by Gaudí’s contemporary, Lluis Domenéch i Muntaner). Muntaner also designed the Palau Musica Catalunya. Gaudi’s Casa Milà and Casa Battló are both on Pg. de Gràcia. Lesser known Gaudí homes include Palau Güell (in Raval) or Casa Vicens (in Gràcia). Reservations recommended for all of these. The Catedral de Barcelona and the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar are both worth a visit. Don’t forget student and pensioners discounts.

Food & Restaurants

Food Markets:

Barcelona is one of the most intentionally designed cities in terms of livability, so fresh, quality produce at top quality is always nearby. Most tourists make it to La Boqueria just off Las Ramblas, but know there are numerous excellent food markets throughout the city well worth a visit. One of our favorites is the Ninot Market in Eixample.

The markets are as much about socializing as they are about commerce, so be prepared to relax and wait your turn as vendors and their customers catch up on the latest. If time allows, select your market(s) and vendors-of-choice and try a few repeat visits. Soon you’ll be joining the gossip.

TIP: Just about every market features at least one restaurant that is often reasonably priced and highly recommended.

Restaurants:

We find the food in Barcelona exceptional for its quality and affordability, not to mention creativity. We typically allow one “destination restaurant,” and make our reservation months in advance. Our best high-quality meals thus far have been in Eixample at Disfrutar (2x) and at their “sister restaurant” Compartir (1x in BCN, 1x in Cadaqués). We also loved Blavis (in Gràcia).  A good choice for more affordable Catalan cuisine is La Flauta II on Rambla Catalunya.

We typically seek out the weekday “Menu del día,” a set meal with some choice that offers multiple courses and drink for a very reasonable (€10.00-20.00) price. Sometimes you can also request a half-portion and save further. A friend said she avoided the set meals fearing the quality would be inferior. We have never found that to be true. Do not shy away from the menu del dia!

Our Restaurant Recommendations 2023 (Google Maps Reviews):

Blavis Restaurant

Habitual Restaurant and Café

Restaurant La Panxa del Bisbe

Antigua Restaurant

Lulu & Flynn

Mimo’s Born

La Esquinita de Blai

Fan Dim Sum

Compartir

Cresta Colorada

Mauri Patisseria

Sanbermut

You’ll find two general food entries in the Jan-Feb 2023 blog from our last trip, and multiple restaurants highlighted in our blog entries through the years.

Here’s a link to our 2020 food overview:

Food and Drink in Barcelona 2020

We hope you found some good information here. Let us know any questions you might have in comments and/or email. We welcome any opportunity to talk about Barcelona and are currently counting down the days until our January 2024 trip. Maybe we’lll see you there!