K & L's Travel Blog

Madrid 18 January 2024

We had a slow morning in the apartment before setting out for Retiro Park. The park is downtown adjacent to the major museums and offers about 300 acres of green space. Bus #2 took us on a scenic ride past Plaza d’España and down Gran Via past Cibeles Circle, finally dropping us directly in front of the main park entrance, Puerta de Alcalá.  En route I manage a conversation with a woman in a full length mink coat about the buildings we were passing and where to see the best art shows. She directs us to a Monet exhibition. 

We sought out a nearby sandwich place (Magasand Retiro) and picked up a turkey and a chicken curry for our picnic. It’s sunny and warm today with lovely clouds. Yesterday’s high winds have subsided and there are lots of people out on the lake. The park is huge! I’ve seen lots of statues featuring patriarchs either looking distantly imperial or surrounded by loving wives and children. One big man flanked by two younger men.

We find an empty bench and enjoy our lunch. Then we wander through wooded areas, past an extensive (dormant) rose garden, and finally end up at a dog park. All it takes to keep us entertained are a couple of playful canines. There are lots of monk parakeets flying about, but few landing in the park as the dogs revel in chasing them. We sit in the sun and enjoy the fun, laughing with the owners at the antics. 

We walk back through the park to a toy and puzzle store in the Malsanca area, just a block from Retiro Park. The store is not quite as large as Puzzlemania in Barcelona, but has a lot of old-world charm and a broad selection. Kitty chooses a 300 piece jigsaw puzzle that will hopefully fit our small table.

We ride the #2 bus back late afternoon and are delighted when it drops us off just around the corner from our door. We venture out one more time to a nearby nut store (NutNut) where we pick up some spicy almonds. Then we go to a patisserie for some pistachio pastries. We are once again charmed by our neighborhood. We pass an ancient local camera store that will be a trip to visit.

Back home we dine like queens on artichokes and chicken. The produce here is notably fresher than just about anything we can buy at home, and artichokes are a special seasonal treat, so tender and flavorful! Kitty cooks up Jacques Pepin style chicken thighs to perfection. We press on with Breaking Bad and feel sorry for Jesse and also lucky we are not addicted to meth or heroin. 

Later in the evening protests erupt outside. We hear bullhorns and chanting and then see police cars and vans blocking the streets. Cars are backed up as far as the eye can see. Horns blaring. We find out it’s a far-right political group (VOX) protesting a play that is being produced just around the corner. Here we are relishing in our distance from far-right US politics only to find fascists fighting the arts outside our apartment in Spain.